FRIEND OR FOE

FRIEND OR FOE
UPLOADED BY WORLD OF BIRDS

Pigeons are here to stay. We must learn to live with them. If certain people want to extend a helping hand, we at Pigeon Recovery believe it is their right to do so and they should not be penalized for offering food to the hungry, so long as it is in a sensible place where the less charitable cannot object.

Street pigeons have deadly enemies, but they also have many friends. We ask their friends to keep an eye open for fallen youngsters under bridges or shop doorways etc. Use a coat to stop them running into the road and take them home or to a rescue centre. But PLEASE REMEMBER, because of the bigotry against pigeons, we strongly advise rescuers to check, when taking pigeons to a vet or charity clinic, what they will do for it before leaving. We at Pigeon Recovery provide sanctuary for any permanently disabled pigeon and do not believe that youth or a broken wing is an excuse to kill.

Also, many pigeons lose toes or legs because of discarded tackle or threads, and can be injured by fishing hooks. Please pick up such dangerous debris and dispose of it safely. Bird feet can be disentangled using nail scissors and antiseptic spray from any chemist applied to the area afterwards.

Finally, listen out for any plans to cull pigeon populations and write, urging them to adopt the many compassionate alternative deterrents and anti-roost devices, and emphasise the fact that killing is always a cruel, unnecessary and short term solution.

To the friends of feral pigeons they are trusting companions in the sterile, lonely concrete messes that humans make. To many they are a symbol of Peace, Love and the Spirit of God. To us at Pigeon Recovery they are creatures in need and we hope that one day they will simply be allowed to get on with the business of living unhampered by blame and bigotry.

Pigeons are gentle, beautiful birds who need and deserve all our kindness and respect.

PIGEONS ARE AMAZING

PIGEONS ARE AMAZING

UPLOADED BY WORLD OF BIRDS

Pigeons and doves belong to a large and successful family of 289 species, ranging in size from the Diamond Dove which is approximately 12cm long, to the Crowned Pigeon which is as big as a female turkey, and in colour from the many-coloured Fruit Dove to the soft grey Wood pigeon. Our familiar feral pigeon of the streets has been known by man for 6000 years. They were sculpted on Egyptian tombs, carried messages for King Solomon, helped Julius Caesar conquer Gaul and won many medals for bravery in both world wars. Several poets including Shakespeare have written about the qualities of pigeons. They are truly amazing birds, for they can; 

• live everywhere except Antarctica
• suck water the way we do
• navigate up to 1000 miles
• sense the Earth's magnetic field
• fly as fast as 75 miles per hour
• hear ultra-sound
• see colours including ultra-violet
• feed their babies 'milk' even if they are male

n � e 0 > : wing. Leave for about a month

EXTINCTION

EXTINCTION

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Contrary to popular notions, pigeons do not carry fleas which bite humans. They play host to certain parasites, but this they have in common with all wild creatures, and not even the most hysterical devotee of hygiene would want every species wiped out because they harbour a few lice. In fact the only real 'crime' pigeons commit is leaving an unsightly mess (biodegradable to a greater degree) in a few corners in our towns and cities, for which they are sentenced to death by a race which has irreparably polluted the whole planet, the oceans and even space itself.

So are we really justified in labelling the pigeon as a destructive element? Another most unpalatable fact concerning their association with man involves members of their large family who have been made extinct. We are all familiar with the image of the Dodo, but how many people realise this gentle flightless islander was actually a pigeon? The Passenger Pigeon was reckoned to be the most numerous bird in the world until this century when the very last one died in a zoo, her fellows having been blown into permanent oblivion by 'sportsmen' glutted on blood.

In all fairness, we owe a debt to pigeons if only as a means of righting a terrible wrong. Before we attach the word 'vermin' to any creature, let us learn to consider ourselves not as the dominant and all-powerful dispenser of malevolence or mercy, but as fellow beings who display the same desire to preserve our existence in a state as near approaching happiness as possible.

CULLING

CULLING

UPLOADED BY WORLD OF BIRDS

All methods of culling involve cruelty and are a misuse of funds because all they achieve are a temporary gap asking to be filled by other pigeons moving in from surrounding areas. After a cull, more food is available to those remaining; hence more pigeons are fit to breed and less succumb to infant mortality. With these advantages they can replenish their numbers at an astonishing degree, to again be the scapegoats for inefficiency, and victims of misguided priorities and wasted resources.

A given pigeon population will level off to a density rate that the food availability can sustain. When that point is reached, less robust pairs will not reproduce and natural losses tend to stabilize flock numbers. So basically, if left alone the flock will not grow ad infinitum, but regulate itself without the unnecessary savagery of drugs, falconry, traps and guns.

If their presence is justifiably unwanted, the only sure (and most humane) way to deter feathered opportunists is to reduce the amount of refuse we produce and net off roost sites. As long as mesh is maintained no pigeon should suffer, and the flock will be stronger and more resistant to disease. This solution is cheaper, permanent and does not employ armies of mercenaries who poison the public's mind with ill-informed scare-mongering propaganda merely to ensure an easy salary.

Too many people accept this ridiculous disregard for life and money, because they choose to believe 'experts' who have a vested financial interest in promoting deplorable myths about these birds.

What any honest vet will tell you is that feral pigeons are no more a risk to human health than any other bird or animal species and it is doubtful than any outbreak of ill-health has ever been traced to pigeons. Another common myth is that pigeon's droppings corrode buildings, but these droppings are neither acidic nor alkaline and cannot corrode building materials. But pigeons are a convenient visible target for anyone who would rather pin the blame on them rather than the sulphur dioxide of car exhausts and acid rain.

PERSECUTION

PERSECUTION

UPLOADE BY WORLDOFBIRDS

To appreciate and understand pigeons as living sentient creatures instead of as a 'problem', it is helpful to know something of their past. The feral's ancestor, the Rock Dove, lived a difficult life nesting on cliffs or in caves, avoiding ferocious falcons and gulls, foraging on the shore and inland, as well as enduring extreme weather conditions, and this created, over the centuries, a very intelligent and resourceful bird.

Sadly, as early as Roman times, people recognized an opportunity to abuse the Rock Dove and stole them from their natural habitat to be kept in specially designed breeding units. One can still see medieval examples of these cylindrical structures where the baby pigeons were reared for winter meat.

However, when farming practices changed, most of the dovecots were abandoned and many birds escaped. Although semi-domesticated and bred with several plumage variations from the original blue-grey, white rump and two black wing bars, a lot of these were still as adaptable as their coastal cousins. They sought refuge on man-made escarpments, and learned to monopolize on the wasteful habits of humans.

Until more recently they were tolerated. Samuel Pepys mentions that they refused to desert their young during the Great Fire of London, and Victorian feral pigeons were allowed to clean up under the nose-bags of draught horses. But as man became more extravagant with food, the pigeon population has increased.

Human beings are ever blind to their own shortcomings, always preferring to condemn another species for situations directly brought about by indolence or neglect. As a result the pigeon, merely taking advantage, as would we all, of a chance to survive, is persecuted under a law which permits local authorities to reduce their numbers by extreme and violent means.

TIPS ON FEEDING PIGEONS

TIPS ON FEEDING PIGEONS

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For food, feral pigeons rely on our generosity and wasteful ways. In the pigeon's interest it is important not to throw food where notices prohibit it, such as railway station forecourts etc. Doing so will attract a large flock and consequently adverse attention from authorities who can and will take action to the pigeon's detriment.

Safe sites are open spaces and parks. It is best not to feed bread near gutters as hungry birds will be tempted to follow stray crumbs into the path of traffic. If you can, feed mixed corn (from pet shops). It is nutritionally superior and is quickly consumed with less risk of crusts being left to encourage rats and still more unsympathetic notice.

Feeding is especially appreciated in the winter months, and water should be provided in gardens as all species drink freely and enjoy bathing.

GENERAL CARE

GENERAL CARE

UPOADED BY  WORLDOF BIRDS

During the time the pigeon you rescued is recovering, suggested containers are a wicker cat basket. rabbit hutch, shed or large box with strips cut away to permit light. Newspaper bedding is the most suitable but needs regular changing! Give mixed corn, bird grit and fresh water in a heavy bowl. If rehabilitation in an aviary is not possible, a spare room or garage allows one to tell if the pigeon can fly properly prior to release. Perfect weather conditions for this are sunny and windless, preferably not in winter. Release near an existing flock where water is always available

ILLNESS

ILLNESS

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Pigeons suffer from a variety of ailments peculiar to themselves, the most likely to come across being the Paramixo virus and throat canker. The virus causes birds to appear fluffed up. unbalanced or dizzy. They may walk in circles, throw seeds in the air when eating, hang their heads or have fits. No veterinary treatment is available as far as we know but the patient almost always recovers after a lengthy period of rest and care. However, he or she must be kept separate from other birds for at least 6 weeks. Canker or Trichomoniasis seems most common in adult collared doves and young feral pigeons aged between 2 and 5 weeks. It is detected by a swollen throat, wet or bad smelling discharge from the beak and unwillingness to fly. This complaint is fatal if not treated with a drug such as metronidazole bought from a vet. Crop-feeding may be necessary while healing is underway. Please do not attempt to scrape away the white growths unless they are severely restricting breathing, as this may damage the lining of the throat. Keep the patient away from other birds. As with dealing with any animal, please observe common-sense hygiene.

EXHAUSTION / STARVATION

EXHAUSTION / STARVATION

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Exhaustion generally applies to racing birds who have gone beyond their endurance. If one comes down in your garden etc. it will appreciate some food. A pinch of sugar in water would also be of benefit. If the breast-bone can be seen or easily felt, there is muscle wastage and the bird is suffering from malnutrition and needs help. In most cases the fatigued pigeon recovers in a day or two and will leave on it's own.

INJURIES / CAT ATTACKS

INJURIES / CAT ATTACKS

UPLOADED BY MASTER LOFT

Contrary to popular belief, pigeons are commonly caught by cats. Typical injuries are scratches or holes under the wings or on the back with considerable feather loss. In all cases, even if it seems recovered, antibiotics from a vet are necessary since cat's teeth carry bacteria. Clean the wounds with TCP, saline solution or antiseptic spray. Half an aspirin can be given if the pigeon seems in pain. Warmth and quiet are essential before seeking professional advice. Bells on cat's collars and keeping pets in at night help to reduce casualties

INJURIES / SHOT

INJURIES / SHOT

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One day our society may ban weapons of any kind, but until then one may find a pigeon who has been shot. Sadly, this foul practice is not uncommon because pigeons receive no legal protection.

A puncture wound is generally painful and may bleed. Only a vet can tell if the pellet is still present and remove it to prevent infection. Part the feathers and clean the area with iodine. If the wound is bleeding, apply pressure for a full minute with a finger, swab or cotton bud. This is vital since all birds have a small blood volume and movement accelerates blood loss. Keep the patient still. Heavy panting or laboured gasping may mean imminent death

INJURIES / SHOCK

INJURIES / SHOCK

UPLOADED BY WORLDOFBIRS

An injured pigeon may be suffering from shock. This means that blood vessels become inflamed and restrict the blood supply, particularly to the toes. These feel cold. To counteract this. keep the bird warm ie. in a box with a wrapped hot water bottle. The condition should not last longer than 3 hours. Bach's Rescue Remedy is helpful. Use the same technique if you know the bird is concussed ie. it flew into a patio door or car. Keep the box away from noise.

fractures

FRACTURES

UPLOADED BY WORLDOFBIRDS

A pigeon limping or favouring a leg which may be twisted out of shape should be taken to a wildlife centre or vet who can Xray and set it. If this is impossible one can use the diagram below as a guide. Fractures in the upper part of the leg are best seen by an expert. 

Extend the leg and wrap it in wadding to protect the skin from pressure. Cut a straw to a length that is shorter than the wadding so the sharp ends do not cut the skin. Slit the straw lengthwise, fit it over the wadding then cover with adhesive bandage. Leave in place for 2-3 weeks, longer if necessary.

Birds bones are hollow and very frail. Fractures near joints do not mend well, and compound or multiple fractures need experienced attention. The diagram below shows how a clean break to a wing can be treated.

Fold the fractured wing into it's natural position. A figure of 8 bandage holds a broken wing in place then another bandage is wrapped over the damaged wing, around the body then under the sound wing. Leave for about a month

CATCHING THE PIGEON

CATCHING THE PIGEON

Pigeons are easier to catch than most birds because they are semi-tame. The flock to which the patient belongs can be attracted with corn or unsalted peanuts. A soft cloth, coat or towel is often helpful. Throw it over the bird from behind whilst it's attention is distracted. The first attempt is the most important since pigeons (being preyed on in the wild) quickly become wary of notice.

Pigeons very rarely bite. Their beaks cannot cause injury. Line a cardboard box with something soft and make a few air holes in it. Pigeons will not die of fright through such confinement. On the contrary, a warm dark environment is vital to overcome shock. One may be fearful of causing further pain or stress by a clumsy catch, but if you leave the pigeon where it is, a cat with no such qualms will almost certainly find it.

RECOGNIZING A SICK PIGEON

RECOGNIZING A SICK PIGEON

UPLOADED BY WORLDOFBIRDS

A sick pigeon will fluff out it's feathers as if it is cold, but in winter a healthy bird will not allow you close enough to pick it up. Instinctively, the patient hides, perhaps under a park bench or in a doorway, and is seen on the ground at dusk when it's fellows have flown up high to roost. The droppings may appear green and watery, and signs of bullying by other birds may be visible around the head. Sometimes, when a pigeon is very ill, it has little chance of survival. But you will be doing a kind service to an individual by sparing it a slow and pitiful death, and to the flock by removing a source of infection, if you rescue it. An injured pigeon may be in shock, limping badly, drooping a wing or bleeding.

REARING BABY PIGEONS

REARING BABY PIGEONS

Most importantly, keep any orphaned

babies you may find warm, using artificial

heat if necessary. If the squab is completely

without feathers (only has yellow down), a

ventilated box containing a red light bulb is

 needed, (hot water bottles do not last through

 the night.) Ring a bird rescue centre as soon as

 possible. If the baby is fledged, then a cardboard

box lined with kitchen paper in an airing cupboard

 is adequate. If you want to rear the bird

 yourself it is best to feed it 3-4 times a day.

 Acceptable foods include a mixture fed

through a syringe, wholemeal bread soaked

 in warm water or milk, canary rearing mix

 from pet shops or a mash of warm porridge

 or digestive biscuit with a little scrambled

or boiled free-range egg (about a third of an

egg at first, increasing to half an egg per day).

Unlike garden birds who gape when hungry,

 it is necessary for the squab's beak to be gently

 opened to receive tiny pellets of food that

 should be pushed into the back of the throat.

Feed until the crop feels plump or the bird

 loses interest. Food can be moistened, but

 do not squirt water into the mouth as baby

 birds can choke or actually drown this way.

 Small seeds like millet can be added gradually

 until the youngster begins to feed itself. When

the squab is old enough to begin to peck at seeds,

 provide a shallow dish of water and cage bird grit.

Once it is well feathered (appearing last under

the wings), keep the youngster outside in some

 sort of cage safe from cats during the daytime.

This will get it used to other birds: encourage

 it to pick up it's own seeds and grains and gain

 beneficial sunlight. Ideally it should spend some

 time in a rehabilitation aviary. but if this is not

 possible, do ensure the bird can fly properly and

eat by itself before release, allowing it to strengthen

 and try it's wings in a bedroom or garage.

When you are satisfied that it is able to fend for itself, let it go in fine weather in a safe area, perhaps a town or city park. well away from cats where it can join a regularly fed existing flock who have all year round access to water.

All baby birds are frail. Please do not blame yourself if the little one dies, even after initial success. Any period of cold weakens their ability to thrive, and infant mortality in nature is always high.

the pigeons family life

THE PIGEON'S

 FAMILY LIFE

Pigeons lay two white eggs on

 any available ledge. In just

 under three weeks the babies

hatch and are fed on special

 pigeon's milk which is a

 curd-like substance produced

in the crops of both parents.

Gradually the familiar grey

feathers replace the yellow down

 which covered the newborn pigeon

 (or squab). Because pigeons favour high,

 sheltered nest-sites, squabs are

 seldom seen. They become

 independent at about 2 months old.

 Any baby pigeon found on the ground

 who appears small, still has yellow tufts

 visible or who squeaks for food or in fear,

is in great danger from cats or traffic etc.

 PLEASE PICK IT UP as it is rarely

 possible to return it to it's nest.

Also you may find pigeons breeding

on your balcony, workplace or roof

space. If possible, allow the parents

 to rear the squabs until they leave the

nest before netting off the area, if their

return is undesirable. Otherwise please

persuade those in authority not to ring

the pest control until all juveniles are

safely accounted for.

federal pigeon

 FERAL PIGEON
UPLOADED BY WORLD OF BIRDS

To the ears of the city pigeon,

 the roaring traffic in our busy

 streets may sound rather like

 the thunder of the sea. These

 adaptable and intelligent birds

(along with fancy doves and

racing pigeons) have one common

 ancestor, the Rock Dove (Columba Livia)

which once lived on British coastlines. Several

 centuries of domestication have produced

variations in plumage, and now hundreds of

the dove's descendants live on man-made

 cliffs to the delight or annoyance of their

flightless neighbours.

The Budgie's Diet

The Budgie's Diet

Uploaded by world of birds

Seed - Every budgie's diet

 staple should be a fortified

 seed mix. This should 

include (but doesn't have

 to be limited to) millet, 

canary seed, and oat groats.

 Some seed mixes come

 with extra additives such 

as dried fruits/veggies

 and small pellets. These

 are all fine, but don't be

 surprised if your budgie

 doesn't eat them.

 Some seed mixes add 

colors to the seeds. Avoid 

any mixes that use artificial

 colors. Only buy those that

 use natural colorants, such

 as beat juice. Keep the 

seed fresh by keeping it 

sealed in an air-tight container. 

To avoid seed moth problems, 

you can freeze the seed

 mix overnight after bringing

 it home.

Fresh Foods - Many people

 don't realize that seed is not 

the only thing a budgie should eat. 

In fact, budgies on a seed-only diet

 will suffer from malnutrition and

 related complications and will 

live much shorter lives than 

those on healthy diets which 

include fresh foods every day. 

Budgies on seed-only diets can

 be expected to live only 4-6 years, 

while budgies can actually live to

 be 10 years or more. So it is very

` important to provide your budgie

 with a healthy, varied diet which 

includes fresh fruits and vegetables.

 Every budgie has individual tastes,

 and you will learn what your budgie(s)

 like and dislike. In general though,

budgies like crispy things, such as

 crisp lettuces and greens. They also 

enjoy their fresh foods wet, so be sure

 to rinse first and put greens into the

cage while they are still dripping wet.

 Some fresh foods that budgies often

 enjoy include carrot tops, sprouts,

strawberries, kale, apples, broccoli,

 and most dark, leafy greens. When

 you feed lettuces to your budgie(s) 

avoid those that are mostly water,

 such as iceberg and cabbage. 

These light colored, watery greens

 don't offer much in the way of nutrition. 

Stick with the dark green/purple

 lettuces which are full of nutrients.

 Also, always take any left-overs of

 fresh foods out of the cage after a

 few hours so that it does not go bad 

inside the cage.

When offering fresh foods to your 

budgie, go for variety in choices and 

presentation and experiment to see

 what your budgie likes. In other words, 

try many different kinds of fresh foods,

 and offer them in different ways. You 

can clip chunks

 (ie melon, corn-on-the-cob, apple, etc)

 in the cage, or pierce them with a skewer

 made for pet birds. You can clip wet greens

 to the side of the cage, hang them from

 or twist them through a favorite toy, or just 

 hang them from the top of the cage. 

You can offer sprouts in a treat cup

 or on top of the seeds. You can chop

up/shred different foods (i.e. broccoli,

 cauliflower, carrot, bell peppers, etc.)

 to make a birdy salad and put it in a

 treat cup or bowl in the cage. You can

 even offer favorite foods from your hand.

 Variety in choices will ensure your budgie 

receives complete and balanced nutrition, 

and variety in choice and presentation will 

keep him interested in fresh foods and in 

trying new fresh foods. If you are having a

hard time getting your budgie to try fresh

 foods (in other words, if you have a "seed-junkie") 

see my FAQ article,

 "How Do I Get My Budgie to Eat Veggies?"

Supplements - Budgies need to be

 supplied with a cuttle bone and mineral

 block at all times. These provide important 

minerals and calcium. Some budgies prefer

 one over the other, some like to tear them 

apart, and some like to use them as perches.

No matter what, they should always be

 available, even if your budgie doesn't even

 touch them. Your budgie's body will tell him

 (or her) if and when it is in need.

There are also other supplements available

 in pet and bird stores, which range from 

vitamin and mineral supplements to pro-biotics

 and algaes. None of these are necessary,

 especially if your budgie is healthy and receives

 a healthy diet. However, some owners may

 choose to consider using any of these

 supplements. Before using any supplements,

 you should first consult

 with your avian veterinarian.

Dangers & Hazards

There are several categories of

 dangers and hazards to your pet

 budgie that you should be aware of:

Foods - There are several foods

 which should never be fed to your 

budgie because they are toxic. This

 includes chocolate, coffee, soda, 

caffeinated beverages, avocado, rhubarb

 and the area of pitted fruits which touched

 the pit. Many fruit seeds are toxic to birds,

 so to be safe always remove any seeds

 from fruits you give to your budgies. You 

should also avoid giving your budgie anything

but limited amounts of milk based products, 

as birds are lactose intolerant. Also, do not

 feed your budgie anything but very limited 

amounts of anything considered to be junk

 food (i.e. chips, fried foods,

 sweets, white bread, etc).

Toxic Items - Never let your budgie

 play or mouth an item or plant unless

 you know it is safe and non-toxic. Some

 metals, the heavy metals, are poisonous

to birds and can poison them simply through 

contact with the beak or skin. The poisonous

 heavy metals include lead, zinc, copper, and

 brass. Metals you can know are 

safe include stainless steel, iron, and

 ungalvanized tin. For more information,

 see "Heavy Metal Poisoning in Birds" by

 Gillian Willis. You also need to be very

careful with items which have paint or glue.

 You need to be sure that any paint or glue

 in/on an item is non-toxic. If you don't know

 what an item is made of, it is better to be 

safe than sorry by not letting your budgie play 

with it.

Toxic Plants - Some plants and parts

of plants are poisonous to birds, so you

 need to research any plant that you have

 in the house or that you plan to use to make

 perches to be sure it is safe. If you can't 

identify it or find out if it is toxic or not, then

 it is again better to be safe than sorry by 

not having that plant in an area where your

 budgie will be or by not using that plant to

 make perches.

Household Cleaners/Chemicals -

It goes to say that anything you wouldn't

 want a baby or child to get into, you

 wouldn't want your bird to get into. But

additionally, birds have very sensitive

 respiratory systems, and you will want

 to avoid using most household cleaners

 and chemicals around your budgies. This

 includes anything with a strong scent or

chemical odor, cleaners, sprays, liquids, 

aerosols, etc. When it comes time for you

 to use a cleaner or chemical in your home,

 put your budgie's cage into another room

 where the fumes will not get to, or place

 the cage outside, partly covered and out

 of direct sunlight. Also, you should not

 use air fresheners (deodorizers and scents)

 when you have a budgie, including

 sprays/aerosols, plug-ins, powders,

 and scented candles. You should also

 avoid using beauty/personal hygiene

 aerosols and sprays around your budgies,

 including hairspray and deodorant.

Another source of toxic fumes in 

the home is non-stick coating (PTFE),

 which comes under many names,

 such as Teflon©. When non-stick 

coating is over-heated, it releases 

toxic fumes which kill birds very quickly. 

Even under normal heating conditions,

 non-stick coating can release some

 toxic fumes. It is recommended that

 you never use cookware or appliances

 with non-stick coating when you have

 birds in the home. For more information,

 see "The Silent Killer" by Joanie Doss.

Physical Hazards Around the Home -

 Don't let your budgie roam/fly

 free in an area or room of the

 house until you've established 

that it is bird-safe. Be sure that

 there are no fans running, and

 that the blinds or curtains are 

drawn on the windows. Also try

 not to have your budgie out where

 there are mirrors, or try to cover

 any mirrors. Budgies can accidentally

 fly into any of these and injure themselves 

badly. Make sure that there is nothing your

 budgie might land on that could fall. Reduce

 the amount of exposed electrical and 

computer cords to the bare minimum,

 and always keep your budgie away from

 these. Remove any plants unless you

know they are safe for bird. Examine the

 area or room from a bird's point of view

 and try to identify and remove anything

 that might be a hazard.

Escape Hazards - Open doors and windows

 are obvious escape hazards. Never have

 your budgie out, even if it is clipped, while

 there are open doors or windows. If a door

 or window does have a screen, before you

 have your budgie out, check and make sure

 it is in place properly, that there are no holes,

 and that it is not becoming loose along the 

frame. When your budgie is out and about, 

make sure everyone in the family/household 

is aware so that they don't accidentally leave

 a door or window open. Also, if it does become 

necessary to temporarily open a door, secure

 your budgie close to your body gently with

 your hand or bring him into a room with the

 door closed until the outside door can be shut.

For more extensive information on making 

your home safe for

 your budgie visit at PetEducation.com.

Physical Health

Of course you care about

 your budgie's well-being, 

so one of your main priorities

 as a budgie-owner is your

 budgie's physical health.

Establishing Your Budgie's Health - In

 general you can tell that 

budgies are healthy by looking 

at them and watching their 

behavior. A healthy budgie 

will be well-feathered  

(unless he is molting at the time)

 and clean and free of any stains 

above the nostrils and around the vent. 

He/she will also have eyes, nostrils,

 and face clear of build-up or mucus

 and a smooth, well-shaped, 

clean beak. A healthy budgie 

will be active when the flock is

 active, and will be int

eractive with the flock (whether 

it be other budgies or people).

To start out things on the right track, 

when you first get your new budgie you

 should schedule a check-up with your 

avian veterinarian. You can use 

http://aav.org/search/index.php to 

help you look up an avian vet in your area.

 This will allow you to get to know your local

 avian vet, to establish a history for your bird

 with this vet, and to get any questions answered 

and helpful advice from a real expert. At your first 

your budgie is in overall good health, and will keep a 

record so that you can monitor his/her health and

 progress over the years. You should take your budgie in 

for a check-up about once a year.

Once you've established that your

 budgie is healthy, from day to day

 you should spend time watching

 your budgie and learning what behavior,

 activity level, and eating habits are normal

 for him/her. This way you will be able to

 identify any changes, even subtle ones, 

that could indicate an illness or problem.

Maintaining Your Budgie's Health -

 The most important thing to your budgie's

 health is a healthy diet (for more information 

read "The Budgie's Diet" section above. 

Budgies also need exercise and activity

 to stay healthy. Your budgie's cage should

 be big enough to allow your budgie plenty

 of freedom of movement and room to flap

 around. The best cage size for your budgie

 will allow him/her to fly from one perch to another.

 To ensure that your budgie is getting enough 

exercise, take your budgie(s) out of the cage 

once a day to allow them some time to fly and

 run about. Just be sure that you've established

 that the area/room is bird-safe (see the

 "Dangers and Hazards" section above).

To avoid illness, be sure to maintain your 

budgie's cage by cleaning out the liner

 often and keeping the perches and 

accessories clean. Also be sure to provide

 fresh, clean water every day.

Mental Health

A budgie's mental health is just as 

important as his or her physical health 

to happiness and well-being. There are

 many aspects to a budgie's mental health,

 but as long as you are a dedicated and

 educated budgie care-giver, you and your

 budgie(s) should have no worries.

Flock Mentality - Budgies are flock creatures.

 This is one of their most defining aspects. Budgies

 need to be part of a flock and it is cruel to keep

 a budgie lonely and isolated. It is perfectly fine to

 keep only one budgie as long as you plan on

 taming him (or her) and you and your family 

can interact with him/her every day. In this case,

 you and your family will become your budgie's

 flock, and he or she will form a very close bond

 with you. If you have a male budgie, he is likely 

(but not guaranteed) to learn to talk in this situation.

 Your budgie will become a beloved household pet.

 However, if you and your family do not plan on 

keeping a tame budgie and do not plan on 

interaction with the bird(s), you must keep

 at least two together. You can keep any

 combination of males and females together,

 but I recommend at least 50% males. 

The budgies will become a flock and will

 interact, chirp, and sing together. They 

will be enjoyable to watch and to have

 around. But no matter what, a budgie

 should never be kept alone and isolated

 without interaction from it's flock

 (whether it be it's human flock or

 budgie flock) on a permanent basis.

The Cage - The budgie's cage is it's home, 

shelter, and safe place. The cage should be an

 appropriate size for the number of budgies 

kept in it. Unfortunately, pet stores often sell

 cages that are too small for any bird to be

 kept in on a permanent basis. An appropriately 

sized cage should allow the budgie plenty

of freedom of movement and room to flap

it's wings. Try not to impede on this by over

-cluttering the cage with toys or other items. 

The cage, perches, and accessories should

always be kept clean. Don't position the

 cage directly in front of a window, or near

 any drafts (i.e. drafty doors and windows,

 heating and A/C vents, etc). Also don't

 place the cage where any positionable 

lamp/light fixture would be pointing directly

 at the cage. If at any time your budgie 

appears to become nervous because of

 something going on in the house 

(i.e. movers moving furniture, turned on 

ceiling fan, etc), cover part or all of the 

cage until the commotion is over. At night,

cover the cage for security and keep a

 night-light on.

Toys - Budgies are curious, inquisitive,

 playful creatures. They need to be

 provided with toys to keep them 

mentally stimulated. Budgies love bells,

 rings, beads, swings, and chew toys.

 I recommend buying several basic toys,

the simplest ones sold at the pet store,

 and then buying one or two fancy 

expensive ones. You don't need to have

 all the toys in the cage at once. In fact, I 

recommend only keeping two or three

 in the cage at a time, and switching

 them out every week or two. See my 

FAQ article, "What Are Some Favorite

 Budgie Toys?" for more detailed

 information on budgie toys.

The one type of toy I recommend 

avoiding is any toy with a mirror.

 Budgies can sometimes develop

 an unhealthy obsession with the

 "other" bird in the mirror, which can

 cause problems with tame budgies

 as well as fighting and possessiveness 

among budgies kept together.

Illness and Injury

Nobody wants or expects their

 budgie to get sick or injured, 

but every budgie owner should 

be prepared in case this happens.

Illness - If you've established

 what behavior, activity level,

 and eating habits are normal 

for your budgie, and you pay 

close attention to him every day,

 you need to be on the look out for

 any changes, even subtle ones.

 This is because any change can 

be a sign that there is something

 wrong. Since budgies are actually 

wild creatures (not domesticated ''

like dogs or cats) all of their wild

 instincts are still intact. In the wild, 

budgies have to mask their illness, 

because if the flock identifies a bird

 as ill and weak, the flock will reject

 that budgie. This is simply and purely

 a survival instinct. Therefore, pet birds

 are extremely good a hiding their illness

 and pain, which is why it is very important 

to be on the look out for subtle changes. 

By the time there is something obviously 

wrong with the bird, he/she has been sick

 or in pain for a long time and is just now 

too weak to hide it. The minute you suspect

 something may be wrong, you should

 schedule an appointment with your 

avian vet. You can use

 http://aav.org/search/index.php

 to help you look up an avian vet in

 your area. Keep track of everything

 you observe about the budgie until 

the appointment, including eating 

and sleeping habits and changes 

in appearance and behavior.

 Reporting this to the vet at 

the appointment will help him/her 

determine what may be wrong. 

If your budgie has become obviously

 sick and/or weak you should seriously

 consider taking him/her in for an

 emergency visit. You can call the 

vet's office to let them know you

 would like to take your budgie in to

be seen as an emergency. They 

will be able to tell you the price of

 the emergency visit, or, if they are 

unequipped to help you at the time,

 refer you to a facility that is.

Remember, the earlier you catch

 an illness or problem with your budgie, 

the better chances you'll have of

 treating it and of avoiding very costly

 treatments.